El Camino del Diablo - the Devil's Highway!|
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Day 1: From Ajo to Cholla Pass Leaving Scottsdale on Christmas day, we were headed for Ajo. Christmas had yielded things like a second Optima battery: the year before, we had met a couple with a new Ford Explorer at Papago Well, and a night out there had left them without any electrical power - not a good thing. Topped gas off in Ajo, 31 gallons in the tank and another 10 in jerry cans. We carried two spare tires and about 15 gallons of water, supplies for about a week, and plenty of film Hitting the dirt on Darby Mine Road, we aired the tires down to 25psi. The road was graded and smooth all the way to the northern boundary of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. Growler Pass was a bit rocky, and we stopped at Bates Well for a break and to look around; this is the location of the last cattle ranch in the area. Must have been a hard way to make a living! The trail smoothend as we dropped into the wide expanse of Growler Valley. Stopping at the intersection with the road that comes up from Pozo Nuevo Well (now closed due to too much immigration traffic), we look back towards the Growler Mountains towards the North. After spending the night at Cholla Pass, we were headed towards Papago Well. Nestled into the foothill of the Aqua Dulce Mountains in the South, Papago Well was and is a source of water in the region, as well as a favorite camp spot for people coming in from Ajo but don't continue on the Camino. We wouldn't meet anybody for the next two days. |
| Day 2: O'Neill's Grave Mr. O'Neill happened to be one of the unfortunate souls that paid the ultimate price on the Devil's Highway and contributed to it's infamous reputation! May he rest in peace; word back then had it that it wasn't worth disturbing the grave since Mr. O'Neill's travel companions hadn't even left a shred of his tobacco behind! His grave is located on the north side of the trail in a region dominated by gravel, sand, creosote, and phantastic panoramic views. Looking back, one can see the Granite and Growler mountains in the far distance. From here onward, we'll travel across the Pinta Sands to the lava cones of Pinnacate. The harshness of the climate here in southwestern Arizona does not only affect the human wanderer but is equally tough on the residential plant and animal life. The bleached skeleton of a huge Saguaro cactus by the side of the trail points at the sky and the unforgiving desert sun. It reminds us that even the best adapted life forms out here eventually succumb to the relentless heat! If you go there, it's no point looking for it, though: it is no longer upright, and wind and weather have put it on the ground. We'll leave the area where Saguaros and Organ Pipes can grow; the hill slopes provide radiant heat in the winter and also a bit more moisture - can't really call it water. Seems hard to believe, but the area in front of us is much more dry... |
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A lone two-track through Pinta Sands Crossing Pinta Sands and passing Las Playas, we experience glaring sun, bright sand, occasionally blowing dust and everpresent creosote. The trail here is about two feet lower than the desert floor, and a sandy two-track leads the way. Conditions were very smooth, and the sand was at most 6 inches deep, so it really was not a problem. Tried out my new ARB air locker in the rear axle, but that really was overkill. In fact, we didn't need four-wheel drive most of the time. However, four-wheel drive is easier on the trail, and my left front hub tries to engage itself on dirt roads anyway, so there you go... |
| Pinta Sands and Pinnacate Distances seem endless, here in the Pinta Sands with a few small cacti in the foreground and the horizon far away. The trail crosses the northern extent of Pinnacate, a region of exceptional beauty and ruggedness where black lava cones mix with bright sand drifts, and razor-sharp lava rocks that try to cut the boots of the unsuspecting traveler/photographer. Here, we look to the north across the trail to the Sierra Pinta on the Horizon. |
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Tule Well Another example that reaching for the sky can't help you on the Devil's Highway... Leaving the Pinta Sands, the trail changes to gravel as it slowly climbs up towards the Tule Mountains. Tule Well is a branching point where the Camino divides into two routes. The eastern fork brings the traveler over Christmas Pass to the Sierra Pinta and towards the Gila River through Mohawk Valley, leaving the Mohawk Dunes to the East. The western fork continues though the Tule Hills towards Tinajas Altas. We rest briefly at the shack at Tule Wells and then continue towards our destination in the Tule Hills. |
| Camp in Tule Hills We made camp a few miles west of Tule Well in the Tule Hills region, amidst Saguaros, Ocotillos, Creosote, and gravel. It was a bit cool at night under a cloudy sky, and we were amazed how quiet it was. Clouds and "skyline" made for a dramatic scenery. |
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Day 3: Lechuguila and Tinajas Altas Tinajas Altas, the High Tank Mountains, are the next destination as we leave the Tule Hills and look across the Lechuguila desert. The natural water tanks in the mountains are the only natural water source on the Diablo. One can imagine the sense of desperation that may have settled in with travelers in the old times looking across this desert valley and wondering whether the tanks would actually have water. Since the mountains have essentially no foothills and rise very steeply from the desert floor, they appear deceptively close. Seen through a 300mm lens of course enhances this effect, whereas the 28mm gives a more realistic view - it is, after all, 18 long miles. We had an interesting experience just at the western boundary of the Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge. Taking a break for photos, we heard a strange, unidentifiable noise, growing louder very quickly. Next thing you know, the border patrol helicopter is coming at us at full speed and about 20 feet above the desert floor. With the mountains as the backdrop, we couldn't see it until it was essentially right on top of us. Being the unsuspecting tourist that we are, we smile and wave to the pilot. He proceeded to talk in his radio, circled us twice, and then flew an outward spiral to check, as we learned later, if there would be any illegal immigrants around in the desert. We move on, and met a border patrol vehicle about a mile down the trail. Rather guarded and curt at first, the officer checked our ID's, permits, and the vehicle, and then explained in a much more relaxed manner that the days between Christmas and New Year and also Superbowl sunday are prime time for illegal immigration traffic on this trail. Apparently, many people get only transported across the border and dropped off in the desert with two gallons of water and instructions for a short walk. The walk then turns out to be about 40 miles, and "apprehensions" turn into rescues.....Anyway, we continued on our way to Tinajas Altas with a bit more insight... |
| Water in the Tinajas Altas! Tinajas Altas are a series of natural water tanks formed by rock slabs across a steep northeast-facing crevasse at the northern end of the Tinajas Altas mountains. Shielded from the sun, water can accumulate here, and the tanks play an essential role for sustaining wildlife here. The region is declared an Area of Critical Environmental Concern. When we arrived, there was water even in the lowest tank, not very nice water, but nevertheless. Wearing sneakers that provide good traction, is was relatively easy to climb the rock slabs to the higher tanks. One can only imagine the horror that set in on an exhausted traveler in the old days, finding the lowest tank empty, and having to climb higher, hoping that one of the upper tanks might have some live-saving water left... The Camino splits up again here. One route is going north towards Wellton and the Gila river, skirting the east side of the Gila Mountains. The other route follows the western path across the Tinajas Altas mountains through a low, hidden pass, and turns northwest towards Yuma and the Colorado river on the west side of the mountains. We chose the western route, only to find ourselves in a desert that seems even more dry.... Here, the sun glares down on a Cholla field, where blue sky and dark mountains in the background combine for exceptional beauty and ruggedness! |
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Rocks and gravel on the way to Yuma! It is a slow going along Davis Plain towards Vopoki Ridge. The trail is not in bad shape, but it goes "against the grain" of the desert here: all the washes come in at right angles to the trail, and the sound of the front spring shackles hitting the frame rails becomes rather familiar.... It gets a little rougher as we climb from the desert floor into the foothills of the Gila Mountains to pass by an old mine. From then onward, the trail turns to gravel as we head towards Yuma, and meet up with civilization again in the developments of Fortuna Hills. |
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Day 4: Camp at Christmas Pass and the Tule Desert! |
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