Forest Road 18 in Arizona|
Truck and River combined... First, a bit on evolution, I am a biologist, after all. Don't worry, it's the truck's, not the Darwinian kind of evolution (I hear they ran out of that kind in Kansas recently). The axle gears are 4.10 now, done by ORW in El Cajon when I was still in California. Best thing to do on a vehicle like this, finally get a bit compression braking on downhills. There's also an ARB air locker in the rear, also done by ORW - hands down the best modification. One can be so much easier on everything, be it the vehicle - because I can go a lot slower, or be it the trail - no more spitting out stones from the rear end due to tire spin on steep climbs. The Con-ferr roof rack (36x54, mounted with a bit of homespun ingenuity after attemping to follow rather useless instructions) has come in handy many times. Oh yeah, I almost forgot, dual Optima Red Top batteries are in, with a factory-style left side tray and a relay from WranglerNW (great company!). I definitely don't want to run out of juice on the trails. |
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Vehicular Developments... Arizona plates now. Presumbly due to the new axle ratio with more action in the pumpkin, gear oil breaks down rather quickly. So I got a high capacity aluminum diff cover with caps support from Summit; that, and 140W oil did it. Of course, due to the increased thickness of the cover, the Con-ferr axle truss doesn't fit anymore - get the grinder out. New el cheapo shocks from Sears held up well...until the first trail ride that is, where they got really hot (I almost burned my hand), and that was it. Oh well, I'll get RS9000's when I finally make up my mind about lifting the truck. New tires today, 33X10.5R15 BFG AT's on the stock rims give a smaller track width, but I like the sleeper look anyway. A little front fender trimming with a hacksaw provides the necessary clearance. |
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Arizona FR 18
One way to get away from the daily grind and recharge your soul in the solitude and beauty of the desert is of course in a 4-wheel drive vehicle, but central Arizona offers another kind: in a canoe. Yes, for the record, you can always walk, but that's not for me, after all I paid for the truck. You can always go on horseback, but the truck is expensive enough. Claudia and myself are river addicts (thanks to Ann and Marv Rader of Cottonwood, AZ), and we have enjoyed the Verde river many times, be it on short one-day jaunts or on week-long trips through the federal wilderness, just the two of us and the canoe. The spring of 2000 was rather hectic with preparations for the move to Nebraska, so we just didn't have the time to go on the boat. We had remembered though that there were tire tracks at one spot on the west bank of the river, just at the southern end of the wilderness. Well, low and behold, there's a road that goes there, AZ Forest Road 18. It looks nice on the map save the last few miles along Red Creek, to be met at the big cottonwood tree. |
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It's a Road! No, it's a Creek!? Our DeLorme map wasn't too specific about the trail here. It turns out that going throuch the canyon of Red Creek, FR18 sometimes skirts the creek bed, sometimes crosses the creek, and sometimes proceeds IN the creek bed. Tread Lightly is definitely on here. Here, the afternoon sun casts growing shadows from tall cottonwoods trees as we slowly work our way towards the Verde river. |
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Back at the Verde River! After four or so rather slow miles, we were back at the river and set up camp on a high spot on the bank of the Verde. The backdrop is formed by the northern cliff of Red Creek canyon just before it meets up with the river. The presence of the water gives rise to a rather lush plant life. Having started camping in conjunction with canoeing where cargo capacity is limited, we still cling to a rather minimalist style: no camp tables, camp kitchens, big lanterns or even coolers. Definitely no stereo; we want to hear the sounds of the river and the wilderness around us. Just a small burner to heat water, no fire; you can't see anything at night when you look at the fire all the time. In my opinion, it is also dangerous, with a little wind and all the dry grass and brush around it is way too easy to have it get out of hand... Granted, this picture shows one of the river rapids about 35 miles or so upstream, but I think you can see why we're addicted to the Verde. Stark mountains with sparse desert vegetation around us, a narrow strip of lush green on both sides of the river, the water to carry us and our belongings, no engine sounds, just the water, and a few rocks thrown in for a good measure of fun. Note to all shrinks: Sleeping by the side of a rapid is tremendous therapy for civilization overload... |
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Heading back These two pictures, one taken from within the vehicle, give you an impression about trail conditions: not really rough, a few not too big boulders, brushing up with a few tree limbs here and there, and a little bit of water every now and then. Again, as with many places out there in the desert: not a place to be when it rains somewhere in the neighborhood. In this case, the safest place is probably at the high spots on the riverbank. |
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Bouncing along... Some of the rougher spots occur when the trail climbs out of the creek bed. There, the BFG tires, run at about 25psi, really performed - great traction over rocks, gravel and dirt, even when wet. I suppose the tire height also came in handy when we crossed the Verde at Sheep Bridge later that day to drive back on Chalk Mountain Road (Note: a bow wave is not a good thing when your vehicle breathes from the front - the result: two stalled, hydrolocked trucks!). Anyways, auto first gear, low range, engine at around 1000 rpm, brakes in addition if necessary: Easy does it! |
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Rewards along the way... For us, it's not just the driving, it's about the whole experience. It is truly amazing what you can see when you keep you eyes open. Arizona offers the dramatic landscapes and monumental plants that defy the heat and reach high in the sky, such as the mighty Saguaro. But two of my favorite flowers can be found much closer to the ground. This tufted primrose grew in the sandy ground close to the river near our campsite. The fragile, white 5-inch bloom is a great treat. Of all the cacti in the desert, the Hedgehog has to be one of the most spectacular when blooming. The deep pink petals give a stark contrast to the forbidding bright spines. We've seen these cacti grow essentially on bare vertical rockface, you wonder how they got there, how they can get a foothold, and what they grow on. Dark pink on a black-brown lava rock - what a sight! |